Thursday, January 5, 2017

CHAPEAX DE PARIS - C'EST TENDANCE

Unlike Tokyo's plain and simple hats, Paris had a hat for all heads this winter.


At ESPACE KILLIWATCH, one of my favorite "trend" stores in Paris, the look was in keeping with Tokyo's plain and simple look. Killywatch is an amazing store with a melange of vintage, second hand and new items layered in, #recycled and #upcycled, all of which are beautifully curated and merchandised.

STETSON hats were featured front and center, with a nice collection of blocked wool felt and well as  classic wool ivy like STW236 which is available in the US from Dorfman Pacific.
N. B.  8/4 caps were much more on display over ivy caps.


The main window featured an off white trail hat, which we had seen in abundance in Tokyo last month.

The trail hat was by far the most highlighted silhouette in the store, many had the brixton label.


We have this silhouette covered in Callanan and other dorfman pacific brands for fall 2017.


callanan trail hat LV390-ASST


The most exciting hat I saw was a "BLAST FROM THE PAST". Dorfman Pacific's classic melton beanie style 167M-BLK. Here it had been given a fresh makeover with an adjustable "baseball cap open back". It was offered in a selection of tweeds that looked great and in addition colors for the ladies. Sometimes, something is so out of fashion that it is back in fashion. This hat was 125 euro!
Maybe its time to bring the stevedore cap back!

STEVEDORE CAPS

Next stop was the new NATURE ET DECOUVERTE store in the Marais. It's a gorgeous 2 level store with a glassed in courtyard.

Nature et Découverte always featured a hat tree of safari hats as a center piece of their outdoor look. Again STETSON was the hat of choice here.


STETSON weathered cotton, leather and cloth hats are available from Dorfman Pacific US.
Interestingly the dorfman pacific version of the tritone leather trim is on close out for $19.99, while supplies last. STYLE DF160-ASST.

BHV's HOMME store, always has great accessories and a nice courtyard to grab a coffee.

On this visit, the hat department had shrunk and had lost it center stage location. Nevertheless, it was still well curated. STETSON and Flèche were the predominant hats here.

BHV hat department display


Nice selection of quality wool felt hats with striped ribbon, contrast bows and classic leather lacing.


Nice contrast stitching detailing which is available in Callanan, gender neutral style LV318-asst.

flèche weather cotton ivy
I really liked the quilted cotton lining. It felt good on. I also liked the fun lining color. weather cotton can be so drab to merchandise.


I liked the twill under brim on this STETSON leather cap. Similar to style STW510 from stetson by Dorfman Pacific.


I have to admit that there was minimum correlation between what the stores were showing and what was being worn on the streets. It was absolutely freezing in Paris over new years weekend. The hat of choice for all sexes was the beanie, or as the french would say le bonnet. Having been forced to stand in an outdoor security at Gare du Nord for 2 hours, I was able to focus in on head wear more closely.

For men the top selling beanie brand was CARHARTT with thinsulate and the best selling color by far was LIGHT GREY. Maybe Dorfman Pacific needs to readjust their color packs!


For ladies it was a knit beanie with a real or faux pompon. We are on trend with this for fall 2017.


You say pompom and I say pompon. same/same. Pompon came from France to England in the 19th century and was misheard as pompom. Today they are equally used in English.
We have pompons and pompoms in scala ladies!!

SCALA ON TREND WITH POMPONS

LK183-ASST

LE FIN



Thursday, December 29, 2016

PLAIN AND SIMPLE hats - ON TREND

On a recent design trip to China, we stopped off in Tokyo to do some trend shopping. Tokyo has been the hat capital of fashion for a number of years. Not only do Edokkos love to wear hats, they love to wear statement hats. Hats that yell, "look at me!". Hats with crazy shapes and crazier trims. Hats with amazing attention to details. Hats that put the K in kool!
Besides the CA4LA ( translates to head size) hat chain and the bespoke THE FAT HATTER, who is in reality a hefty fellow, you could find healthy hat departments in every major store.
For hat making videos from the stores check out eye_of_the_designer on instragram.


BESPOKE HAT COSTS

So we trolled the stores for 2 days, 9 hours per day and simply fond nothing that got our creative juices flowing. In Japan there has been a seismic shift away from hat wearing since our last visit there 2 years ago. 2" fedoras and under are non existent, with the exception of a few spotted on older solitary men.

This winter the hat of choice is a gender-neutral round or pinched crown, broad stiff brim, trimless or a very simple trim. This is a little concerning, as a hat without bells and whistles, can be a tad boring. Not that all hats have to be fancy, but it is nice to have a little trim for the Dapper Dans and ladies with hatitude to wear.

What was interesting and very important regarding these plain and simple hats was BRANDING!!
Although many of these hats looked like they should be cheap, and would be in H&M, Uniglo etc.,  they were far from it. As hatters, we were aghast to see medium quality wool felt hats at US$250 while nice quality fur felt was at US$150. Obviously the Japanese customer knows little regarding quality or does not care, but is willing to pay over inflated prices for the right BRAND.

Luckily at DORFMAN PACIFIC, we have solid brands to offer our customer Scala, Woolrich, Biltmore.


PLAIN AND SIMPLE HATS



PLAIN AND SIMPLE
HANG YOUR HAT UP

I really like the hat ring trim on this hat!

There was also a scarcity of cloth caps in Tokyo stores, but the Japanese are certainly in love with HARRIS TWEED. Forget about a discreet inside labels, they could not make the labels big enough.

HARRIS TWEED AS A BRAND
And as we have been seeing in the USA, flat peaked baseball caps continue to gain strength but are totally brand driven.


As we all know, the devil is in the details!



Wednesday, December 7, 2016

LADY GAGA'S HAT ATTACK

Lady GAGA, the one and only, the one we love, truly deserves the hat persona of the year 2016 award.

First, we had the big brim PINK hat, that gaga dons, on the cover of her album Joanne. She wore the same pink hat while Carpool Karaoke with James Corden and also wore it in the new add for apple music.
By the way, in case you are wondering who Joanne is, it is Gaga's middle name!



If that was not enough for the queen of fashion, she crowned it, at her performance at the Victoria's Secret Fashion Show by wearing a hat worth ONE MILLION DOLLARS. Yes folks, that's a lot of zeros for a hat, $1,000,000. The large brim fedora was dripping in 45,000 SWAROVSKI crystals.

The hat took 300 hours to make and involved 10 craftspeople.
Both hats are NY miller extraordinaire Gladys Tamez.







Monday, December 5, 2016

NET WORTH - TREND FALL 2017


Net Worth

This air stewardess cap with netting is all about "girls just want to have fun".

This is not about the lady doing lunch or derby, it’s about looking flirty and coquette. Gucci inspired.



WOOL FELT LV385-ASST #CALLANANHATS



  



  

Thursday, December 1, 2016

BOHO BANDITO- ON TREND FALL 2017

Boho Bandito
High crown Bandito styles were all over the runways for F17. I was totally inspired by the Boho Banditos from the hit series WESTWORLD.
These are fresh takes on the Wild West that do not require cowboy boots, horse riding and cowboys.
Many of these hats are gender neutral like LV373, LV370.

gender neutral ultra suede LV373-ASST

GENDER NEUTRAL WOOL FELT LV370-ASST

GENDER NEUTRAL WOOL FELT LV271-ASST

HIGH CROWN WITH TRIBAL TRIM LV391-ASST

ULTRA SUEDE SAFARI LV393

WOOL FELT CAMP HAT LV370-ASST
GYPSY FEDORA WITH COIN TRIM LV392-ASST
All above lifestyle shoots by KOITZ.
  






Wednesday, November 16, 2016

BEE on trend


The dramatic decline in bee populations or CCD is a terrifying situation. Often as an act of awareness, we wear badges and ribbons to show our concern and loyalty with an issue. We wear our heart on our sleeves.

For S17, Callanan (CR260-ASST) as well as other designers like Gucci are using bees as pins and broaches.
CALLANAN CR260-ASST






We continue to see this motif being used at Callanan LV387-ASST and at Scott and Soda.

CALLANAN LV387-ASST

SCOTCH AND SODA BEE
SCOTCH AND SODA BEE