Saturday, September 17, 2011

HATS AN ANTHOLOGY

HATS AN ANTHOLOGY by Stephen Jones opened at the Bard Graduate center, 18 West 86 NYC this week, via the Victoria and Albert Museum London. It is a wonderful exhibit that any hat lover need to go see. It is open through April 2012, so check out the web site for on-going hat leactures www.bgc.bard.edu
The museum is situated in a townhouse, which is an intimate venue for a hat exhibit. The magic of this exhibit is that is curated by a milliner, Stephen Jones, who understands hats, lives  hats, creates them with his own fingers, to whom a hat is never an after-thought. Unlike other hats exhibits which are boringly curated by era, these hats are shown together by themes/inspiration; a hat from 1600 next to a hat from 2012, which proves my point "that there is very little new in millinery. As hat makers, we reinterpret dormant style with a modern twist". Mr Jones, milliner extroadinaire was the perfect host, meeting and getting his guests in the foyer.
Mr. Jones bookended by myself and Mr. Williams from JJ Hat Center.
On the ground floor we start out very British.
Paris may have couture but London will always have its Royal family and all there hats and Britishness.
Rule Britannia, Britannia rules.....
At Waterloo, Napoleon did surrender...
Hats are crowning glories. We know the French by their beret, the Turq by his fez and the Jewish man by his yamaca, the king by his crown.

This pierced turban by UNDERCOVER 2006 was intriging and scary.
It was shown next to this Gele African head wrap 2009.


we move to floor 2.
People forget that sports helmets, bike helmets are also headwear.
Beautiful and interesting but not sure where to wear this one?
this bought my eye. Splendid workmanship.
in person this was so supple.
This hat by Louis Vuitton, leather 2009 was featured in the geometric case.
As was this Tudor hat circa 1500-1600.
These lovely ladies were architecturally inspired.

we are now on the third floor. Let the fun begin.

Love that they used a classic Mexican hat in this case.
Next to a Dior 2007 artist pallette hat by Stephen Jones.
With an Italian silk night cap embroidered with metal circa 1740.
Another Dior by Stephen Dior  2002.
Sewn N Y Times paper by Lola 2010. Lola and I studied with legendary milliner Ann Albrizio. Lola is 1 of America's most successful hat designers.
A hat with a flower, so simple, so classic.
1920's cloche with flowers.
shallow crown gibson girl was worn on gathered up, pined up hair, rather than on the head.
Sewn milan braid with flowers.
They even set up a little milliners working space. Reminded me of my apprenticeships with Woody Shlep and Arnold Levine.

A milliners work room is a little like falling down the rabbits hole, full of delights and wonders.

Birds of a feather. Milliners caused the extension of so many bird species. Oh well, it was a great cause ,fashion!
Goose feathers by fellow Irish Man Philip Tracy 1995.
British circa 1750. Guinea and sick feather over linen base.
Recycle, recycle. fashion is not all bad.
Amazing piece by Philip Tracy.
Is this a pun on the millinery term "under glass".
Ladies with an hattitude.....
This is wear the exhibit fell flat on its face. Please look to Hollywood to see American global hat influence.
Please, you could have used a costume quality bobby hat for London.
This is insulting. It is neither authentic nor sexy. Do yourself a favor and call Milano Hat Company for the real thing or Scala if you want a sexy Madonna throw away cowboy hat from her tour.
What the hell is this?

I get it, but do you know who STETSON is?
We move on to fun hats. I was a glove hat man myself.

Philip Tracy for Sarah Jessica Parker 2008. Peacock, hand painted turkey feathers , pheasant feathers and silk roses.

wow.
fun
Mr. Whippy by Stephen Jones 1995.
People do not know that 1 reason for the  exploration of America was for fashion. European beavers were over-hunted bur fashionistas wanted beaver hats which were a dime a dozen in the Americas.
Beaver fur felt top hat circa 1650.
With coordinated hat bad also circa 1650.
Sex sells. sex on the brain circa 1996.

tongue and cheek.
Ultimate status.
Grand Finale, top hat worn by President Roosevelt circa 1940.

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